SPOT CHECK - 5 REFLECTIONS ON NZ'S MOST DANGEROUS ROAD
In Queenstown, you'll see Land Rovers and Troop Carriers in the wild at every bend and hill you go over. We love this - they enjoy the adventure as much as we do (we think), so it's easy to strike up conversations about common topics - and local knowledge is always invaluable.
During these casual conversations, a common topic emerged: Skippers Canyon. So we headed straight in. Within 100 meters, we knew what to expect. There were no friendly, encouraging signs saying "Welcome to Skippers Canyon," but instead we were greeted with red warnings, disclaimers, and warnings that our insurance would be void (very important information that took me a few minutes to read and understand).
After reading the sign, Joel became excited, remembering an overzealous tourist who had crashed his Toyota rental hatchback onto this road in the past. We had only gone 50 meters when we came across our first canyon survivor. At that moment, Lorenzo had just been involved in a serious bicycle accident while coming up from the canyon. Luckily, Lorenzo had fallen to the right, but on the other side was a sheer cliff several hundred meters high. After talking at length with Lorenzo, we realized this drive would not be easy, so we set off.
If you're a big fan of searching for something on trusty Google, try typing "Skippers Canyon." Between the sheer cliffs and crystal-clear rivers, you'll find that the "Skippers Canyon Drive" is ranked in the top 10 most dangerous roads in the world. At that moment, Joel and I knew we were onto something interesting.
What we were hoping for was "interesting," and this is what we found.
This is not for the faint of heart - you need a really experienced driver, or in my case, a very reliable passenger who is quick to spot traffic ahead. The road is one lane, very narrow, and gravel. There are no fluffy grass patches or picnic areas to make sandwiches, just sheer cliffs on one side and cliffs hundreds of meters high on the other. The road undulates up and down, and almost every bend is a blind corner. It's a truly nail-biting experience that will have you on the edge of your seat the entire way.
*Note: Be careful. It's not the road itself that's dangerous, it's the other drivers you share it with. Always keep your horn on when going around tight blind turns.
2. It's worth it
Once you overcome the obstacles and catch your breath, you'll find something truly breathtaking. It could easily be mistaken for a canyon in the US or Canada, but it's actually right on our doorstep. It takes a bit of courage and time to get there, but it's well worth it. Even if it means adding a new rattle to your Land Rover, every moment is worth it.
3. Beware of rafting companies
Every day, these buses transport people ready to tackle the crystal-clear river. They routinely climb up and down the canyon, but I wish they'd drive a little slower. Maybe they've memorized the route from driving it every day, but they still need to be careful. Sometimes they come at you at terrifying speeds. That may be part of the adventure, but I don't want to have to back up a few kilometers and lose a game of rock-paper-scissors to find a clear spot to let other traffic through.
4. Get ready to see the bluest, clearest water in the world
We set up our rooftop tent, pulled out the cooker, made some tea and dipped our feet in the water, admiring the frigid blue water. It was magical.
As with the whole South Island, there's something new to discover around every bend, so take your time. On the way down, if you're brave, there are parking spaces along the way where you can stop and take photos, but you'll need to be quick. Reaching the open end of the canyon feels like hitting the jackpot, but keep going - we're told there are even more spectacular views waiting.
Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to explore the river and were captivated by its magic. If you visit, we encourage you to go further and share its wonder with us.
